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There is a lot of pressure on a Peace Corp Volunteer/Trainee.  While the life is pretty chill, actually - Lots of sleep, money provided, no schedules or ‘must-do’ lists,  but it seems we are constantly watched.  I am not talking about the curious children that surround us each night, but by our peers here and loved ones back home.

“Will he/she make it the two years? Do you think he/she will ET (Early Termination)?”  We know this is asked about us because we ask it (regularly) about each other.  I am willing to place money that each volunteer was asked at least once prior to leaving the States, “Can you handle Africa?” My group even has made a shirt saying, “Don’t ET, Phone Home.” Cute, very cute and witty.  But troublesome for me… here is why: (I apologize in advance for my habit of critically analyzing my perception of reality.  I realize this makes few friends).

This mentality seems to turn Peace Corps service into a notch in the belt - for those who can ‘cut it’ and successfully ‘grin and bear’ two years in a poor country.  Peace Corps Service should not be looked at as a contest to be won, to see who can handle having the lit end of a cigar burnt into their skin the longest.  Is this what this resume building activity has become, or always has been?

The superficial sacrifices are important and should not be completely dismissed.  But in my humble opinion, the three months of training and living with a host family should be a reflection on SHOULD I, as a white, middle class privileged American, be here?  Do I have a right to be here?  What effects/consequences are there from me being here, both personally and professionally?  Would I better serve in my own culture? Etc, Etc.

Lucky for me I can afford to phone home (even fly home mid-service or for an important event), go to the five star hotel (with a pool) and get a hamburger - I even hear that there are milkshakes in Ouaga.  AND never, never underestimate the value of a care package.  These accesses to privilege make the ‘ability’ to do Peace Corps quite easier.  I believe few volunteers/trainees ET not because they can NOT do Peace Corps but because they CHOOSE not to.

I often remind myself that there are multiple motives and values for doing Peace Corps service.  This is important to recognize in order for my peers and I to understand, interaction and forgive each other.  But the understanding seems to end when the Peace Corps seizes to serve the motives, values, or needs of a person.

Judgement follows ET.  From peers in-country and loved ones.  It seems to me that more courage and honesty is needed to ET than to service in Peace Corps.  Perhaps instead, the more important issue is for each us is to ask if we are wanted/needed in our communities.  If I feel the Peace Corps is imperialist should I complete my service to save face? What about the young 20-something that discovers that he/she is unable/unwilling to break down the barrier of privilege in order to develop an understanding and respectful relationship within his/her host community?  And what if a moment of clarity tells one of us that our talents are better used to be part of a social change in America or to tend to a sick loved one?  How much character (and pride, self-esteem) will one lose if such honesty is followed by a decision to ET?

If you are starting to judge me, don’t worry, I have no thoughts of ETing… as of now.  Personally, i do not doubt that I “can’t” do this- I did not come to Africa to prove my ‘toughness’  at roughing it.  But I have many thoughts on if I should be here- not at a personal level necessarily but as a guest in Burkina.  As a privileged American (a country with important tendencies), as a ‘development worker’.  In keeping true to my desire to be part of the solution (and what that really looks like).

So many questions, so few answers.  So little language skills to help me listen.  Patience is my personal lesson.  I trust that time will show me where my community is and how I can work in solidarity, side by side, as equals.  And if this is possible as a Peace Corps member.

*Disclaimer: Terms, numbers, facts, and spelling may be incorrect - These posts are often written by kerosene lamp without access to references. If you notice a mistake, please comment.
I believe in dialogue - comments and conversation are valuable to me!! So if you have thoughts - please voice them!!!

Burkina has made the news- Washington Post, Front page.  Not only that but the WOMEN of Burkina made the U.S. news.  Shit is getting worse, finally Burkinabe women are worthy of a news story.  The article (I encourage you to read it, click the link) is mainly highlighting the realities of the WORLD food crisis.  It was interesting to read, having observed this culture for a couple months.  First- Burkinabe eat with their hands- rich or poor.  Why this bothered me, I do not know.  I wanted to clarify that culture should not be confused with poverty (or visa versa).  A western journalist, through their culture lens, and limited knowledge on the subject, can understandable misrepresent observations.  But this article, based on my limited insight, is pretty accurate.  Prices are doubling, tripling in this country, where unemployment is 77%.  One of my language teachers told us that rice went from 12.50 for 50kg to 20.00, Gas was at 550 is now 1350 and 100kg of corn is 15.00 when it used to be available for 10.00.  This is drastic.  Especially since work is not available.  Parents are pressured to “realize” the value of educating their children- which is NOT cheap.  But my host brother who after this year will have been educated for TWICE as long as his older cousin, will be in the exact same position- unemployment. The young men/older boys are hanging in the villages helping in the fields because there is no work in the cities, which means less money for the entire family.  Not only is this a problem for the obvious reasons but where is the argument for education?  If the uneducated child is going to be in the same position as the semi-educated child (FYI- the majority of village children only complete the eventually of a 10th grade education), why spend the money?  Hmm, reasonable question. Any thoughts?

Tangaye is going to be my home in Burkina Faso come September. It is a medium size village 15 km outside of Ouahigouya. There is a small local hospital, primary school, town hall, and small store in the village. Ouahigouya will be the closest town to me that has a market with fresh food, electricity and internet, and cold drinks. I am “opening up” a new site meaning I am the first Peace Corps Volunteer to live in this village (and the first American as well). The Peace Corps found this village while touring around the area for a new site. It was the only village to agree to build a house for a volunteer. This is the reason I will call Tangaye home. I am not sure how I feel about this “strategy” to identifying ‘motivated’ villages.

I spent three days in Tangaye. I visited all the important people and places. My impressions are minimal- My judgments will start in September….

It has taken me about 4 to 5 weeks to figure out the “family structure”- in the way that makes sense to my western mind- If I had (or ever do have) the time I will make a family chart like the one my host brother and I made. I can not say enough about the women of Burkina, who are AMAZING!!! From when they are 5- taking care of the infants and cultivating to when they are 12- fetching water, cultivating (with the men), cooking, cleaning and going to school (if they are lucky). Then around 15 until perhaps 18 for village women- they are married off- usually arranged marriages and start having children. My host mother has eight children. The WHO average is 6.7 children for a burkinade women. Most village women I have met have 5-7 children (or are still young and having children). Educated women living in the cities seem to have less, probably the average is around 3 children. The older men have an average of two wives according to my brother. But many of the younger men have (or want) one wife and fewer children. My host brothers say they want 3 children because children are expensive. And it is expensive to educate a child here in Burkina. So I have met the superwomen of Burkina. Oh and please do not forget that 77% of women have undergone FGM/C but I will not talk about it much because I have not heard or witnessed it. It is not talked about but I am told by my language teacher that most girls have undergone it in my village. I will be lucky if I am able to talk about it with anyone during my two years. It is forbidden in Burkina by law.


I do have to gave a hand to the men. They are superhuman as well. Especially some who seem to always be working and then looking after me. The hierarchy system in the family structure is very apparent. Everyone has a place and knows it. The men get my extra food. The children get the less nutritious food. Certain men work harder, others have better clothes and always seem to be chilling. The older men do not seem to cultivate as much. The boys that go to school are the favorite (and also the bullies) of the kids. The hierarchy even determines who will get my gifts in the end. (I try to be sneaky and let the ‘less’ favorite ones play before the word gets out.) Also if certain people are in my courtyard others will not come in. Women and girls are always against the wall, but this is difficult to analyze as the language barrier may contribute to this.


But every human is human and every human has his/her own personality and spirit. My relationships with my host family is my escape from the stress of learning how to live in a francophone country as a Peace Corps Volunteer. I hope I feel this comfortable in my new village and can build similar relationships.

I arrived in Burkina during the rainy season which is also the time the families plant most of their harvest.  Most everything revolves around this time of year including school.  Because the children are needed to work in the fields the school year ends the end of May and does not start until after harvest, around the end of September or beginning of October.

The Peace Corps staff has told us that this is a difficult time for village families.  Though this is the time they must work the longest and hardest, it is also the time when the money and food (from last year’s harvest) is the scarcest.  Often their supplies start to run out sooner then they can be replaced.  Thus, this is the crunch period.  I have witnessed the amount of work that is invested.  There is no day of rest for some.  The first week I arrived in Boyoga came the first rain (it was very late this year apparently).  The very next day EVERYONE was out in the fields cultivating the soil.

My family is growing millet, another type of grain (used in the main dish- Tô, beans, peanuts, some rice (I believe) and I think another type of bean or pea.  But it is mostly millet which is their main diet.  Next time you visit a historical farm in the US and learn how farming was done then you will largely understand how it is done here.  My family has many fields, spread out- some next to the family cartier (compound), some at least a km away.  For an area about a third of a football field, I have seen two teams of bulls used (My family has five bulls).  Two bulls are used for one hoe (on a wheel).   A child around the age of 12, but can be much younger, usually a girl, leads the bulls.  Another younger child holds a whip and ‘directs’ the bulls.  The older man (meaning my host brothers- 19-28 years old) handles the hoe to turn up the soil, in order to plant the seed.

Right now it is mango harvest though the season is ending.  Peanut harvest is also occurring and will last until August.  Everyone in the family has a role.  Women and children often use gardening hoes to help cultivate other fields used for beans and peanuts (this is crazy back-bending long, hard work- most Americans would look at you like you were mad if you asked them to perform this task for a day).  Women are the ones harvesting and selling the mangoes.  Two young boys, around 7-8 years old look after the family herd of goats, following them around during the day.

This past week was the week that rain was needed in order to have a decent harvest in the fall.  This has been a drier rainy season then average.  On Friday, the families got what they needed with a seven hour rain storm.  My host father was very happy.  And again, the whole family spent all the nest day in the fields.  The Saturday before it had been too dry to do any new cultivating (so I think they had to play catch-up).

It is extremely impressive to observe how well my host family knows the land and the weather.  They work hard and know how to survive with the resources available.  But when I asked two of my host brothers if they liked farming, they said they did not because of how difficult it was.  They said if they lived anywhere else they would not be a farmer.

Last night my host brother came into my courtyard.  Obviously just finishing work, he looked exhausted.  He said he was tired and wished he could work in America and send money back to his family so they would not have to cultivate anymore.

Though I question if he understands the hardships he would encounter in making a life and getting work in the US that paid enough money for him to significantly help his family, he reminded me that this is not a life of choice but necessity.

Most people making a living, in any country, living below middle class income, are making choices out of necessity.  But there has to be solutions to make it easier to survive.  There has to be a way to ease my host brother’s burden and still fill the children’s bloated bellies.

I am in a country that is one of the poorest in the world. This fact has a different meaning once one is sitting on the soil. The Human Development Index (for 2007) ranks Burkina 2nd from the bottom. Only Sierra Leone- which suffered a brutal civil war beats Burkina for the poorest.
So what does this mean for a privileged American? What does it mean to my host family? To the children that are staring at me as I write this? Because of my wealth and privileged has not disappeared but followed me into this country- I believe that I must mention privilege within this “informational” blog. There are many ways to justify privilege (and I would rather not hear them again). What I am interested in is the honesty about privilege. How does one be an ally when privilege is such a divide and at times a barrier.


Am I just a tourist here? Simply witnessing while the Peace Corps funds and caters to my ‘vacation’? How honest should I be? How honest do I need to be?


What should I be doing right now? I can not even speak the language to ask- “How should I fit into your daily life?”. For my host family, for this country- What right do I have to come in with all my resources (aka: money) and hang out? I am not making life easier. Actually the exact opposite since my host mother cooks for me and helps me with my chores. I am not helping a child become healthier or get educated.


At this moment I do not know my role in making the world a better, more equal place. I feel helpless and privileged. I am completely humbled.


However, I do know that my host family has enriched my life. Go figure…

I am in Ouahigouya, a city in the north. Though the land appears harsh, we have not yet entered the Sahel, which is further north. Djibo and Gorom-Gorom are the “cities” in the Sahel.
The two day staging in Philly was training about Peace Corps Philosophy, health and safety as well as bits and pieces of Burkina culture. The Peace Corps philosophy has not changed much since it was created. The three values 1. assist in the development of a developing country 2. learn about the host country’s culture and share it with other Americans, and 3. share American culture with the host country. There is a focus on sustainable development, culture exchange and only enter a country by invitation.
Upon arriving in Burkina, we stayed in Ouagadougou, the capital city, where training continued. The city is not as developed as I thought it would be. It’s appearance seems to be an indication of the country One thing that was interesting to me was the many unfinished buildings, as if there was a boom than bust (as in an oil rich economies). If this is the case I have no knowledge of what caused the boom (and bust) and when it occurred (if it did). I have talked with my program director (the women who directs the Girls Empowerment Education (GEE) program). She told me that individuals and businesses start to build without having the entire funds available for completing a whole building. When funds available run out, building stops until more money is found- often in the form of loans. Grants are available but are not widely sought out because people do not know the process or availability.

The group was largely isolated in a building (hostel) run by Christian missionary. We participated in training, language testing and immunizations shots. So Ouago, as called by the locals) remains a mystery to me.

It seems that Burkina is progressing and developing from listening to volunteers who have been in the country for 1 to 2 years. Cellphones are everywhere- the regional Chief of Ouahigouya was holding a cellphone while we met with him. There are schools being built and other items being made available. Wireless is a realty, at least in the Peace Corps house in Ouago. Cyber cafes are all around though the connection is slowly and less reliable. However food and gas prices have more than doubled in price.

Ouahigouya is hotter and a town (the 4th or 5th largest) full of teachers. I have started the 3 month training in a nearby village, Boyaga Z. This town has no electricity or running water. There are poles for wiring because the town expects to get electricity within the next few months. Many of the houses are made of mud and stones. I am living in a two room house that is made of mud and concrete. The family that is hosting me spend a lot of time repairing their houses- a little concrete would free up a lot of time. Due to my extremely low level of French, I have not figured out the dynamics of my family. I do think that my father has two wives. The one who is “in charge” of taking care of me has 9 children. There are many children, teenagers, and women. There is a small Mosque next to the family compound. I believe that there is one house for each wife and her young children, my father, and the older boys. For the past three weeks I have enjoyed living with this family.

The earth is symbolic of the reality here. Baron, burnt red, and scarce of resources. I am constantly reminded of the need for a sustainable, home grown project as I am surrounded by decaying objects- buildings, cars, fences, clothes, and trash.

It is difficult to take it all in- there is so much for me to process and to understand. Many times in the short time I have been here, my cultural lens as blurred the reality and my understanding of my village’s culture. Again, I have more questions each day then answers.

The people make this country beautiful. Friendly, nice and hardworking, After all, Burkina Faso means the “land of honorable people”.

I have less than a week left in the United States before I call Burkina Faso “home” for the next two years. As a Peace Corps Volunteer (PCV), I will be in this land locked country to focus on Girls’ Education and Empowerment. This title/job is a relatively new one for PCV in Burkina. Upon receiving a grant, the government of the country has started to address gender inequality. I am assuming this is mainly due to the fact that women rights, education and development is essential for a country’s economic growth (check out Amartya Sen’s work). So in working with the government, Peace Corps now places volunteers, such as myself, in villages (mainly in the North and East of the country) to work on getting the girls into schools and educated.

As I pack many pairs of pants, shoes, shirts and spend an large sum of money on various items; I am very conscious that I have out spent what a family in some parts of Burkina makes in a year. Many will have only one (if even that) of something that I have several of. Oh, the inequalities of this world!

I hope this blog is educational and I have no doubt it will be entertaining- I can only imagine the mistakes I will make with the French Language. Please feel free to share your thoughts and knowledge with me.